My dad's toes were cut off one by one…and then his body dissolved in acid by gangsters. After a childhood like that, tackling Hawaii's infamous Pipeline wave was a walk in the park

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My dad's toes were cut off one by one…and then his body dissolved in acid by gangsters. After a childhood like that, tackling Hawaii's infamous Pipeline wave was a walk in the park

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How could a cocky blond 20-year-old upstart from Australia be about to win the most prestigious surfing competition in the world: the 1978 Banzai Pipeline Masters in Hawaii? This gruelling competition takes place in 'one of the most dangerous, snarling tubular masses of water on the planet', which has killed more surfers than all the other surfing spots in the world combined. The Hawaiians, possessive of their own world-beating surfing prowess, did not like what they were seeing.
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